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If you want to find more information, I click on the link right?
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General Discussion / Re: Introduction
« Last post by Adisark on October 17, 2017, 12:58:08 PM »
A good introduction to the story is more interesting.
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Projects / Omega Speedmaster ref.175.0032.1 cal.1143 Automatic Reduced
« Last post by kanikune on April 03, 2017, 10:21:52 PM »
Omega chronograph with famous Dubois-Debraz-module (DD) came to service.


The watch is piled of modules and it comes in pieces pretty nicely.


First the autowinder module can be taken off. Below is shown the slightly modified ETA2890A2


After removing the crown the basic movement can be taken off. The last module in the case is DD-module.


DD-module with the dial removed.


Fully dissassembled DD-module..


..and fully disassembled basic movement.


First I cleaned the basic movement.


First the barrel bridge. The dent for the stem can be seen at top part of the bridge.


New mainspring.


2nd wheel placed below the barrel.


Next the barrel bridge can be put in place.


Going train.


Train bri.. cock tightened with one screw.


Next to assemble keyless works.


Cannon pinion being lubricated.


Here the dial side almost completed. Only shock setting and the chronograph driving wheel, which is driven on top of 4th wheel.


Pallet is placed.


and balance wheel.


Next the DD-module was washed.


This wheel transmits movement to second hand.


This bridge has permanently attached intermediate wheel for chronograph. Few more intermediae wheel in the bottom of the picture. These transmit movement from minute register to hour register.


Chronograph second counter wheel in place.


Bridge with hammers.


Intermediate wheels for regular second display.


And bridge tops it off. The A shaped spring keeps second hand movement smooth.


Brake for the chronograph.


On top of the picture spring to snap start-stop lever in position.


Vertical clutch which engages chronograph.


Start-Stop-lever in place.


The chronograph state information is stored in the position of the part next to start-stop lever.


On top of the aforementioned, comes part, which drives vertical clutch.


Here the bit is place, which actuallu rubs against vertical clutch.


Reset lever.


Reset-lever returning spring.


On top of reset lever comes linkage to move hammers when reset is encaged.


Then comes bridge to cover everything. Notice the slot for the vertical clutch driving bit.


After minute and hour wheel comes the dial.


Next to case. Crystal had a crack so it wa replaced.


New gaskets to pushers..


New crystal ready and new crown ready.


Case was submerged for couple of hours. The inside remained dry.


Clasp lock was also faulty so it was replaced.



The hands come back on.


The modules start to come together. Notice the L-shaped hacking lever.


Autowinder module assembled.


and in place.


Ready for the wrist.
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Techniques / How to replace a jewel
« Last post by kanikune on October 04, 2016, 09:30:28 PM »
This tutorial gives you a quick demonstration how to replace a jewel on a going train.
Here I'm relacing a 4th upper jewel on an Omega cal. 1012. Beforehand I have checked with microscope that the jewel has too much side shake.


As I want to replace the jewel, I first need to drive it out of the bridge. It's good practice always to verify that pusher doesn't cover the jewel, otherwise the pusher will remove part of the bridge and that is a big fail. Here I'm checking the pusher. The pusher should be biggest possible but smaller than the OD of the jewel. 0.15 mm smaller diameter pusher is usually quite easy to choose.


Next step is to choose an anvil for the job. Omega is a good example that bridges have steps that make choosing the anvil a pain. Here I'm using special anvil specifically meant for Incablocs. Normally it's best to drive the jewel out from the top side. This is because we don't want to make any marks on the bridge. Marks are easily formed with small anvil and the contact pressure made by the jeweling tool.


When anvil and pusher are selected, it's time to drive out the jewel.


I never use jeweling tool without full control and this is the method how the jewel can be driven out with total control: First the pusher is set to same level with the jewel. The adjustment screw is screwed in so that the pusher can be very gently lowered to the surface of the jewel. Very small touch is all that is required. If too much force is applied, jewel moves unintentionally.
When the pusher is on the level of the jewel with very gentle power, the micrometric adjustment screw of the jeweling tool is unscrewed until it catches the pusher level. Now the pusher is at  the level of the jewel and force can be used at the jeweling tool lever and jewel is not moved.  I normally use other hand to hold the lever and with other hand I unscrew the micrometer adjustment.


Driving out the jewel is now simple. Again small force is at the lever. The micrometer adjustment is screwed in a bit. Then lever is pushed with moderate force.The movement of the jewel can be felt.
This is repeated until jewel pops out.


When the jewel comes out of the bridge, the OD of the jewel is measured and recorded.


Then the wheel pivot is placed on a jewel reference plate or measured with micrometer to get the jewel ID. This Seitz tool is handy because it's easy to verify the correct fit of the jewel. Pivot should nudge little bit in correct jewel. Tight fit is too small even if the pivot goes all the way in.


Now that ID and OD of the jewel is known, new jewel can be taken and placed on the back side of the bridge. Normally flat surface is all that is required as an anvil when replacing a bridge jewel.
Usually this phase is easy, as the OD of the jewel is known, 0.05 mm or 0.15 mm bigger pusher is selected. Pump pusher is good choice as it makes it easier to center the pusher. Normally it's adequate to drive the jewel to the surface of the bridge. Now the pusher acts as a limiter as the pusher OD is bigger than the jewel OD.


Last but not least step is to correct the end shake of the jewel. This is verified by mounting just that one wheel and fully screwing in the bridge. If end shake is correct, replacing the jewel is completed. Wrong end shake requires adjusting the depth of the jewel. As the jewel is left on the surface, wrong end shake is normally too tight, which means that jewel needs to be driven further down. This is achieved by selecting pusher smaller than the jewel OD and driving the jewel small steps down at a time and iterating this step until correct depth is found.

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Projects / Re: Service: Omega Seamaster Quartz cal 1342.
« Last post by kanikune on July 13, 2016, 01:14:45 AM »
hi,
there are 2 quite identical looking transmission wheels after stepper motor. Do these twitch at all?
Other wheel's pinion drives the rest of the system so check these are not mixed.

Stepper should advance only to one direction. If it twitches, there is something wrong in the stepper unit. The stepper motor's axle can be lifted up from the motor. Only magnets are dragging it down.
Axle might be dirty. Careful on that one. Those steppers are getting quite difficult to find.

Can't figure what that chrome cylinder is.
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Projects / Re: Service: Omega Seamaster Quartz cal 1342.
« Last post by Lars_london on July 12, 2016, 04:50:32 PM »
Hi there, you won't believe it but still haven't made any progress on this! To be fair, left it parked for a few month…
So finally took it apart completely at the week end. Observed all wheels with magnifier and can't see any obvious damaged parts or dirt.
Brushed wheels with soft toothbrush.
Put it back together. few questions (apologies if they are stupid!):

The step rotor moves back and forth. Is it the way its supposed to work or should it move only in one direction in regular increments?
Still, it doesn't seem to move the other wheels (sweep second and reductions I believe)

Also, one part felt, which I can't locate where it came from… It is a small chrome cylinder, with a little groove right in the middle. I believe it was on the electronic board side.

Thanks
Laurent
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Projects / Service: Zenith XL-Tronic cal. 50.0 (ESA 9162)
« Last post by kanikune on January 26, 2016, 11:03:05 PM »
One of my owns. I got this tuning fork in working condition, but the gold plated crown stripped all the remaining plating off, crystal was scratched and the movement was dirty.


Fullwind to disassembly.


First the regular parts were cleaned in regular cleaning cycle.


And the base plate was assembled. Here the keyless works are getting together. I must say this mechanism is simple but changes date fast. Yoke spring is little bit different from usual.


Keyless works ready.


Other side is quite simple at this point, too. On the centre is the wheel for second hand. The plastic gives drag for the wheel and keeps it in place when the crown is pulled to time setting. I didn't notice to take picture of the train bridge but I'll come back to that soon.


Remaining wheels on the dial side. Date click is still missing from the left side of the date driving wheel.


Date ring back. Date click is attached "permanently" to date cover.


Because of the modularity, Dial and hands can be assembled now and the watch can be cased. New nylon gasket and crystal are in place and new Zenith crown tops it up.


This is how the movement looks in the case at this point. Notice the train bridge is there now.


Tuning fork parts are very delicate and I cleaned them in fresh fluids in ultra sonic.Here the clean tuning forks is attached to the top plate. Only index wheel and 2nd wheel are under the "first train bridge". 2nd wheel connects to the previously assembled base plate and drives the 3rd wheel which is in the centre. Other finger is of course in the tuning fork and the other one is attached to the brass colored plate visible "at 6". That is normally easily adjusted as screw adjusts the tightness and position of the finger.


This is quite simple as after adding the two-piece circuit the unit is ready.


Assembled in the case. Initially the watch runs way too fast, but after adjusting the "finger tightness" the watch starts to keep good time.


Maybe black leather suits this watch.
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Projects / Re: Service: Breitling Shark A53605 Chronograph B53 (ETA 251.262)
« Last post by kanikune on January 03, 2016, 11:05:05 AM »
You can buy this watch now:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321965150477
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Autowinding Mechanism / Bucherer huolto.
« Last post by thomasooni on December 13, 2015, 11:37:47 AM »
Hei ! Tiedustelisin mitä tulee maksamaan Vintage Bucherer Automatic Chronometer kellon huolto ? Kello käy mutta huoltohistoria ei tiedossa ja jos käyttökelloksi niin huolto välttämätön. ( Vastaus s-postiin.)
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Projects / Service: Breitling Shark A53605 Chronograph B53 (ETA 251.262)
« Last post by kanikune on November 14, 2015, 11:58:10 PM »
I bought this Breitling screaming for a service, because I wanted to get familiar with ETAs premium Quartz chronograph movement, 251.262. Movement works ok mostly, but the chrono minute hand has jammed in the 45 minute position. Also chrono reset button had jammed.


The movement is officially Breitlign B53. Aside normal time setting and chronograph functions movement has hour hand quick set, which also makes the date manipulation faster.


The first great challenge was to loose the chrono pushers. Lot of gunk had built inside and reset button needed light hammering to get out. I don't know if this is duw to over greasing in the past or natural built up due time. The sapphire crystal had also bid dent, so new one was replaced.


Chrono pusher axles take 2 o-rings.


Fullwind to full entropy. On the top right rotors are stuck in the Rodico.


After cleaning keyless works back together.


Assembling the setting lever bridge was little something, as the setting is spring loaded.


On the picture at 12 o'clock date wheel driving wheel. In the center there is two-layered hour wheel. The two layers are separated with mechanical claws that click at 90 degree intervals. This is for the hour hand quick set. I have seen previously this done by magnets in Omega quartz movements.


Now comes the main circuit. Chrono circuit puhers are on the left. (Case pushers have their own return springs). When the circuit pusher is pushed, pusher circuit is closed and function is registered by the logic.


Hacking lever. This has two functions when the crown is pulled to time setting mode. 1st it electrically shuts down the time train and 2nd mechanically holds the time train wheel, so that second hand stays put.


On top of the main circuit comes cover bridge. Also stators, rotors and coils are in place.


Something little different. The white guu is probably silicone and it has vertical thin copper wires inside. The purpose of this block is to connect main circuit to circuit extension. The outer black part holds white part in place.


This movement has following hands on the center. Chrono seconds, chrono minutes, normal hour nad minute hand. So 4 hands stacked. Because of this 3 functions are piled very closely: time train, chrono minute and chrono seconds. Notice the hacking lever sticking out of the cover bridge. Chrono minute driving wheel had long fiber curled around it, which have probably entered the case during battery replacement.


This was not easy task, as there is three wobbly manetic rotors and bunch of wheels that all need to align under this bridge.


Placed succesfully. Here only secured by 2 screws as chrono second wheel & bridge is secured later with two screws.


Here upper small hand drivers.


Chrono second hand wheel & bridge back together.


Circuit extension, which connects stepper motors to main circuit.


On top of aforementioned comes the movement cover.


Dial side of the movement is very simple. Only date wheel with 3 holders are screwed in.


Stacked chrono hands are nice, as the other hides nicely when the chrono is not in operation.


Here chrono is stopped at 3.4 seconds and chrono minute hand is visible.


Now that everything works this is indeed one great watch. The bracelet has safety lock and diver's extension.
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