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Projects / Re: Omega Speedmaster ref.175.0032.1 cal.1143 Automatic Reduced
« Last post by kanikune on December 09, 2017, 10:15:09 PM »
Not often. I believe service of these are getting more in common in the near future.
Projects / Service: Rolex Airking ref. 5500 cal. 1520
« Last post by kanikune on December 09, 2017, 10:14:12 PM »
Rolex with loose bezel and wobbly rotor came to service.

Loose rotor have made a small noticeable circle on to the auto bridge. In certified Rolex service this gets expensive as the whole bridge would be replaced.

First I repair the autowinding bridge.

Basic autowinding construction. Rotor turns small wheel. Two ratchet wheels makes the barrel driving wheel turn which ever direction the rotor turns.

The autowinding mechanism have been operating dry for some time, as the there is noticeable red dust next to lower rotor jewel and the rotor axle is worn. New axle and jewel is needed.

After the wait, the spares arrive.

First I break the old post with the method that doesn't open the rotor opening at all.

Then I just riveted the new post back in.

The jewel was replaced and the rotor wobble is gone.

Next the case was disassembled and cleaned with ultrasonic cleaner.

Movement cleaned.

New mainspring was fitted.

Hacking lever and the barrel in place.

Going train. Barrel jewel is inforced brass bushing. When this wears, a jewel is normally fitted.

Train bridge was drops into it's position.

Cannon pinion was driven in.

Crown wheel and the ratchet wheel.

Pallet and the balance wheel was fitted.

Initial readings.

Assembly of the autowinding bridge.

Ready to be put to the movement.

Second hand arbor and it's driving wheel.

Then the keyless works was assembled.

Ready for the dial.

Dial and the hands installed.

Movement cased.

After casing and minor adjustments. Still ticking at 6 seconds 6 position delta.

Ready to serve.
Projects / Re: Omega Speedmaster ref.175.0032.1 cal.1143 Automatic Reduced
« Last post by Treeso on December 08, 2017, 04:02:09 PM »
Masterful skills, Kanikune. I love this particular model, it's a classic. Do you get these often?
Going Train / Re: Brand jewels in movements
« Last post by Sadudinhun on November 22, 2017, 12:34:45 PM »
I have seen that it is true and believe in this.
Going Train / Re: Going Train Backlash on assembly
« Last post by Sadudinhun on November 22, 2017, 12:34:28 PM »
I have seen that it is true and believe in this.
If you want to find more information, I click on the link right?
General Discussion / Re: Introduction
« Last post by Adisark on October 17, 2017, 12:58:08 PM »
A good introduction to the story is more interesting.
Projects / Omega Speedmaster ref.175.0032.1 cal.1143 Automatic Reduced
« Last post by kanikune on April 03, 2017, 10:21:52 PM »
Omega chronograph with famous Dubois-Debraz-module (DD) came to service.

The watch is piled of modules and it comes in pieces pretty nicely.

First the autowinder module can be taken off. Below is shown the slightly modified ETA2890A2

After removing the crown the basic movement can be taken off. The last module in the case is DD-module.

DD-module with the dial removed.

Fully dissassembled DD-module..

..and fully disassembled basic movement.

First I cleaned the basic movement.

First the barrel bridge. The dent for the stem can be seen at top part of the bridge.

New mainspring.

2nd wheel placed below the barrel.

Next the barrel bridge can be put in place.

Going train.

Train bri.. cock tightened with one screw.

Next to assemble keyless works.

Cannon pinion being lubricated.

Here the dial side almost completed. Only shock setting and the chronograph driving wheel, which is driven on top of 4th wheel.

Pallet is placed.

and balance wheel.

Next the DD-module was washed.

This wheel transmits movement to second hand.

This bridge has permanently attached intermediate wheel for chronograph. Few more intermediae wheel in the bottom of the picture. These transmit movement from minute register to hour register.

Chronograph second counter wheel in place.

Bridge with hammers.

Intermediate wheels for regular second display.

And bridge tops it off. The A shaped spring keeps second hand movement smooth.

Brake for the chronograph.

On top of the picture spring to snap start-stop lever in position.

Vertical clutch which engages chronograph.

Start-Stop-lever in place.

The chronograph state information is stored in the position of the part next to start-stop lever.

On top of the aforementioned, comes part, which drives vertical clutch.

Here the bit is place, which actuallu rubs against vertical clutch.

Reset lever.

Reset-lever returning spring.

On top of reset lever comes linkage to move hammers when reset is encaged.

Then comes bridge to cover everything. Notice the slot for the vertical clutch driving bit.

After minute and hour wheel comes the dial.

Next to case. Crystal had a crack so it wa replaced.

New gaskets to pushers..

New crystal ready and new crown ready.

Case was submerged for couple of hours. The inside remained dry.

Clasp lock was also faulty so it was replaced.

The hands come back on.

The modules start to come together. Notice the L-shaped hacking lever.

Autowinder module assembled.

and in place.

Ready for the wrist.
Techniques / How to replace a jewel
« Last post by kanikune on October 04, 2016, 09:30:28 PM »
This tutorial gives you a quick demonstration how to replace a jewel on a going train.
Here I'm relacing a 4th upper jewel on an Omega cal. 1012. Beforehand I have checked with microscope that the jewel has too much side shake.

As I want to replace the jewel, I first need to drive it out of the bridge. It's good practice always to verify that pusher doesn't cover the jewel, otherwise the pusher will remove part of the bridge and that is a big fail. Here I'm checking the pusher. The pusher should be biggest possible but smaller than the OD of the jewel. 0.15 mm smaller diameter pusher is usually quite easy to choose.

Next step is to choose an anvil for the job. Omega is a good example that bridges have steps that make choosing the anvil a pain. Here I'm using special anvil specifically meant for Incablocs. Normally it's best to drive the jewel out from the top side. This is because we don't want to make any marks on the bridge. Marks are easily formed with small anvil and the contact pressure made by the jeweling tool.

When anvil and pusher are selected, it's time to drive out the jewel.

I never use jeweling tool without full control and this is the method how the jewel can be driven out with total control: First the pusher is set to same level with the jewel. The adjustment screw is screwed in so that the pusher can be very gently lowered to the surface of the jewel. Very small touch is all that is required. If too much force is applied, jewel moves unintentionally.
When the pusher is on the level of the jewel with very gentle power, the micrometric adjustment screw of the jeweling tool is unscrewed until it catches the pusher level. Now the pusher is at  the level of the jewel and force can be used at the jeweling tool lever and jewel is not moved.  I normally use other hand to hold the lever and with other hand I unscrew the micrometer adjustment.

Driving out the jewel is now simple. Again small force is at the lever. The micrometer adjustment is screwed in a bit. Then lever is pushed with moderate force.The movement of the jewel can be felt.
This is repeated until jewel pops out.

When the jewel comes out of the bridge, the OD of the jewel is measured and recorded.

Then the wheel pivot is placed on a jewel reference plate or measured with micrometer to get the jewel ID. This Seitz tool is handy because it's easy to verify the correct fit of the jewel. Pivot should nudge little bit in correct jewel. Tight fit is too small even if the pivot goes all the way in.

Now that ID and OD of the jewel is known, new jewel can be taken and placed on the back side of the bridge. Normally flat surface is all that is required as an anvil when replacing a bridge jewel.
Usually this phase is easy, as the OD of the jewel is known, 0.05 mm or 0.15 mm bigger pusher is selected. Pump pusher is good choice as it makes it easier to center the pusher. Normally it's adequate to drive the jewel to the surface of the bridge. Now the pusher acts as a limiter as the pusher OD is bigger than the jewel OD.

Last but not least step is to correct the end shake of the jewel. This is verified by mounting just that one wheel and fully screwing in the bridge. If end shake is correct, replacing the jewel is completed. Wrong end shake requires adjusting the depth of the jewel. As the jewel is left on the surface, wrong end shake is normally too tight, which means that jewel needs to be driven further down. This is achieved by selecting pusher smaller than the jewel OD and driving the jewel small steps down at a time and iterating this step until correct depth is found.

Projects / Re: Service: Omega Seamaster Quartz cal 1342.
« Last post by kanikune on July 13, 2016, 01:14:45 AM »
there are 2 quite identical looking transmission wheels after stepper motor. Do these twitch at all?
Other wheel's pinion drives the rest of the system so check these are not mixed.

Stepper should advance only to one direction. If it twitches, there is something wrong in the stepper unit. The stepper motor's axle can be lifted up from the motor. Only magnets are dragging it down.
Axle might be dirty. Careful on that one. Those steppers are getting quite difficult to find.

Can't figure what that chrome cylinder is.
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