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Projects / Service: Breitling Shark A53605 Chronograph B53 (ETA 251.262)
« Last post by kanikune on November 14, 2015, 11:58:10 PM »
I bought this Breitling screaming for a service, because I wanted to get familiar with ETAs premium Quartz chronograph movement, 251.262. Movement works ok mostly, but the chrono minute hand has jammed in the 45 minute position. Also chrono reset button had jammed.

The movement is officially Breitlign B53. Aside normal time setting and chronograph functions movement has hour hand quick set, which also makes the date manipulation faster.

The first great challenge was to loose the chrono pushers. Lot of gunk had built inside and reset button needed light hammering to get out. I don't know if this is duw to over greasing in the past or natural built up due time. The sapphire crystal had also bid dent, so new one was replaced.

Chrono pusher axles take 2 o-rings.

Fullwind to full entropy. On the top right rotors are stuck in the Rodico.

After cleaning keyless works back together.

Assembling the setting lever bridge was little something, as the setting is spring loaded.

On the picture at 12 o'clock date wheel driving wheel. In the center there is two-layered hour wheel. The two layers are separated with mechanical claws that click at 90 degree intervals. This is for the hour hand quick set. I have seen previously this done by magnets in Omega quartz movements.

Now comes the main circuit. Chrono circuit puhers are on the left. (Case pushers have their own return springs). When the circuit pusher is pushed, pusher circuit is closed and function is registered by the logic.

Hacking lever. This has two functions when the crown is pulled to time setting mode. 1st it electrically shuts down the time train and 2nd mechanically holds the time train wheel, so that second hand stays put.

On top of the main circuit comes cover bridge. Also stators, rotors and coils are in place.

Something little different. The white guu is probably silicone and it has vertical thin copper wires inside. The purpose of this block is to connect main circuit to circuit extension. The outer black part holds white part in place.

This movement has following hands on the center. Chrono seconds, chrono minutes, normal hour nad minute hand. So 4 hands stacked. Because of this 3 functions are piled very closely: time train, chrono minute and chrono seconds. Notice the hacking lever sticking out of the cover bridge. Chrono minute driving wheel had long fiber curled around it, which have probably entered the case during battery replacement.

This was not easy task, as there is three wobbly manetic rotors and bunch of wheels that all need to align under this bridge.

Placed succesfully. Here only secured by 2 screws as chrono second wheel & bridge is secured later with two screws.

Here upper small hand drivers.

Chrono second hand wheel & bridge back together.

Circuit extension, which connects stepper motors to main circuit.

On top of aforementioned comes the movement cover.

Dial side of the movement is very simple. Only date wheel with 3 holders are screwed in.

Stacked chrono hands are nice, as the other hides nicely when the chrono is not in operation.

Here chrono is stopped at 3.4 seconds and chrono minute hand is visible.

Now that everything works this is indeed one great watch. The bracelet has safety lock and diver's extension.
Projects / Re: Service: Omega Seamaster Quartz cal 1342.
« Last post by kanikune on November 13, 2015, 11:40:55 PM »
Yes, parts can be cleaned using lighter fluid. Not recommended to be used in ultrasonics though.
If you are going to clean more watches than this one, you might want to buy cleaning machine. I started with lighter fluid and now I have automatic cleaning machine, agitation based, no ultrasonic and I feel that is sufficient for me.

Most common cleaning machine type is 3 jar system. If you have electrical skills, these are pretty easy to fix, if fix is needed. I would check that all the baskets come along and the jars are intact with lids. At least Elma jars are still available as new.
Old cleaning machines have cleaning basket with only 4 compartments. I have Elma (seen also in this project) and the basket unit has 11 compartments and can take 4 mesh baskets in, which enables to clean most chronographs at once and parts stay in order.
Projects / Re: Service: Omega Seamaster Quartz cal 1342.
« Last post by Lars_london on November 13, 2015, 12:32:57 PM »
Hi, sorry for late reply.
Thanks a lot for that useful info.
Yes i didn't want to push too much so i've removed the battery until i dismantle the watch/movement.
I'll try and have a go at the week end. Haven't removed hands and dial as yet, just the stem and couple of screws that hold the movement in the case.
Also, I haven't got a cleaning machine. Some people mentioned that parts could be cleaned in lighter fluid (like zippo).
Any advice? Should I buy a cleaning machine? (saw they can go for as little as £20 on ebay but never used one)
Projects / Re: Service: Omega Seamaster Quartz cal 1342.
« Last post by kanikune on November 08, 2015, 02:22:47 PM »
Sounds like safes bet is to disassemble and service the whole movement.

If you look at my initial post, on the 3rd pic, at 6 o'clock on the movement there is small pointy spring. It can be cracked. This returns the crown in normal position after pushing for minute adjustment (and opens circuit). If this spring has cracked, control circuit might be closed all the time causing weird behavior.

Have you removed the hands & dial?

the circuit has trimmer capacitor. It is quite delicate part and I have a feeling that if pushed too much with screw driver, the strcture might suffer and capacitance might drift. This is something I've had in my shoud do list for some time.
Projects / Re: Omega Seamaster Quartz ref. 196.0150 cal. 1342
« Last post by kanikune on November 08, 2015, 02:14:14 PM »
Can't remember, but after taking out the hands I took out the case clamps which holded the white case ring in place. If there is screws seen on the outer circumference of the movement, then the dial is screw-fit. If there is no screws, then the dial is just pushed into position.
Projects / Re: Service: Omega Seamaster Quartz cal 1342.
« Last post by Lars_london on November 06, 2015, 06:03:58 PM »
Very good post :-)
As per my other post, I just picked up one of these (This is my first restoration project!)
When picked up, it didn't work at all although there was a battery in it.
I removed the movement from case and with help of tooth pick, pushed the seconds hand gently.
After a few attempts, it started moving although ticking 1 second back and forth. A bit more help and it started moving normally.
I let it run for about 7hrs but it lost about 1h40 along the way.
Also, trying to set the time, the hours and date worked fine but when trying to set minutes by pushing crown, the seconds got stuck after a few rounds. A single push on crown got it moving again but whenever trying to set minutes, the seconds hand gets stuck.
Any ideas what i should look for in particular?
Many thanks

Projects / Re: Omega Seamaster Quartz ref. 196.0150 cal. 1342
« Last post by Lars_london on November 06, 2015, 05:47:06 PM »
Hi, thanks for this very useful post.
I've just picked up one of those.
Do you remember how the dial is removed from the movement?


Going Train / Brand jewels in movements
« Last post by kanikune on May 21, 2015, 11:50:17 PM »
I have come to notice that not even close to always you can use brand specific jewels when repairing watches. In many cases the previous watchmaker have not been able to obtain the correct jewel and next step is to use jewels from current inventory. Obvious case is, when jewel hole is reamed bigger than original jewel hole, but always it is quite common to face situation, when the wheel bearing surface has been burnished to smaller dimension.

In this case if the best result is needed,, the wheel needs to be replaced with original jewels, or matching jewels need to be ordered, if not in stock.

Spice to this situation brings cases, when jewel has special dimension in height. Normal Seitz jewel might be too high for this situation.
General Discussion / Re: Introduction
« Last post by clockwatcher on May 18, 2015, 02:01:25 AM »
Hi Kanikune!
I found your forum when looking for information on servicing Omegas. Your walkthrough of a cal.268 was great.

I have come to appreciate mechanical watches much later than you - I am over twice your age - but the affliction that is watch fever has infected me! I started by watching videos and reading various forums and, as I became more informed about watches and watch repair, I started to buy watches.

At first I had no direction and I bought watches that were interesting to look at. Then I made decisions about which watches attracted me - could I buy quality watches at a good price?

I now have a reasonable collection of good vintage watches - Omegas, Favre-Leubas, Roamers - but all at a reasonable price.

I have a collection of tools including a watch cleaner and will soon have a dedicated workspace for my watch repairing.

When I finally begin to service my watches I hope I can do as good a job as you.

Projects / Service: Bulova Accutron cal. 2181
« Last post by kanikune on May 17, 2015, 05:13:11 PM »
I have previously met 218d and this is mostly similar. Small differences are in the calendar mechanism. Mostly, to my understanding, to ease the reassembly.
This watch comes to service with box and papers. Rare set these days.

Watch has clearly collected dirt inside, but the watch was still in operation when it arrived. First I take off the casing spring, which tensions against case back to support the movement. Below this opens the view to see the tiny fingers which turn the index wheel.

Jewels are dry and there's enough dirt.

Fingers are dirty too. It's indeed time for a service.

The principle of the calendar is quite simple but functions well. In the latter picture the small wheel turn the "arrow tip" (date trip wheel) which builds tension to the spring during the day. This tension releases at midnight and releases date indicator trip arm to advance the date wheel. This makes the date change instantaneous.

Tuning fork removed from the movement. The pawl finger is not removed from the tuning fork during service and this makes handling the tuning fork very critical. If tuning fork flips, Mr. Murphy pays you a visit and you can expect to see at least distorted finger.

Little bit off focus, but here's the index finger held in the plate, which is adjustable. When hacking function operates, index finger is lifted off of the index wheel to stop it to rotate. Pin sticking out of the hack lever assembly bends the finger little bit which is enough to stop index wheel rotation. This bend should be ½ width of the index finger tip (the part). This is important, because if bend is too much, it can change the static position of the index finger.

Fully dissassembled.

The crown gasket has completely dissolved and that's because of bad quality silicone grease.

Non-critical part cleaned in normal watch cleaning cycle. The delicate parts get special treatment.

Fingers and index wheel are so delicate that these cannot be put in the cleaning basket, as they would damage in the cleaning process. In the ultrasonic I have normal water based cleaning solution in the bottom but in the cups there is normal cleaning solutions: cleaning and rinse.

Ultrasonic in operation.

Because Accutron can operate long without been serviced, many times the cannon pinion greases solify, causing cannon pinion to jam. If this happens and time is set, wheels can get broken. Here I put the cannon pinion upside down first to lubricate the friction surface.

Here correctly assembled.

Keyless assembly.

The calendar quick set claw missing still.

Hack lever goes to the bottom. In lower section of the hack lever is the pin which bends the index finger in hacking mode.

Firstly the index finger back on. One (the most below) of the screws is off center one to allow adjustment.

Tuning fork assembled.

At this point extra carefulness required. If finger stays in wrong position, no alarm is given while bending happens.

Before the wheels oils to the jewels.

This time this part went too easily as the train bridge just dropped in its correct place.

Fresh battery and the hum begins.

Few extra closeups.

Pawl finger vibrating. Here I'm adjusting the hacking. This is too far from the index wheel.

I tried to take picture of the date quick set claw. It's pointing up, here.

assembling the date mechanism is quite delicate. Two simultaneous springs are tensioned here and the date trip sprig is quite forceful.

Waiting for the dial.

There is lot of discussion whether to put old style 1.35 V or 1.5V battery into these. Originally Bulova have spec'd these watches to survive even 1.7V, so nothing will fry with 1.5V battery. If the watch is adjusted to 1.35V battery and 1.5V battery is replaced, the watch will start to gallop, run fast. This is because higher voltage causes bigger amplitude to the tuning fork. Bigger movement in tuning fork causes pawl finger to swing more and this causes index wheel to advance 2 or more even more teeth per one vibration.
The amplitude of tuning fork can be adjusted and this is simply done by adjusting the force the fingers push to the index wheel. Here it sounds easy, but in real life it's little bit delicate process.
This watch run first at too high speed, but after adjustment it started to run just fine.
I recommend to use normal 1.5V battery. Reasoning: these are the most fresh, modern batteries with best operation life. There are also batteries and battery adapters, which are based on diodes, but when these are used, they only can use the volume the original battery has. This means ultimately poor operation life compared to battery of "full volume".

New tension ringed crystal and new gaskets and this one is ready to head home.

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