Author Topic: Service: Rolex ref. 6532 cal. 1030  (Read 2881 times)


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Service: Rolex ref. 6532 cal. 1030
« on: July 12, 2014, 12:19:31 PM »
This is where my watch hobby started little less than 2 years ago, when I turned 30. At then I decided it would be nice to be able to service my own watch. Back then my initial knowledge of mechanical watches was close to zero. (I say close to zero, not zero, because I knew Rolex brand.) During this period I have learned that watchmaking indeed is very challenging hobby or profession. My hat is off to you watchmakers!

Caseback reveals caliber 1030, properly matured.

At first I disassemble the whole autowinding unit as succested by Rolex sercive manual.

After removing autowinding unit one transmission wheel is left behind, which can be just lifted off the movement.

Before anything else I remove tension from the mainspring.

Closeup reveals the necessity of the service.

Dial and hands to a safe.

Dial side of movement hides also option for the date ring. -Maybe one day.

I remove balance from it's bridge, as I have plans for it.

Pallet and pallet bridge.

Center seconds is implemented by extra wheel on 3rd wheel. Thin spring is holding seconds arbor in place. The lack of specific bridge for the seconds arbor makes movement thinner. Movement has shock protection also for the escape wheel.

Seconds driver off.

In the past someone has tightened the barrel bridge with hammer. That's wrong!

With this movement I get the same feel of the low profile as e.g. with the Omega 56x.

I take off the balance spring from the balance wheel, as I intend to improve balance wheel pivots.

It's easy to notice, on which side the watch has been held more.

After the modifications.

Rest of parts off from the mainplate excluding cap jewels.

Next to adjusting the autowinding unit.

Oscillating weight carries the bearing with it.

Autowinding bridge has two reverser wheels and transmission wheel.

Between the reversers a nice surprise is found. Did I mention I purchased this watch from eBay?

Before cleaning the parts I assemble the balance wheel assembly back together and visually adjust the beat where it should be.
Notice increased jewel count. 1030 does not have lower jewel for the center wheel. Movement in this age desperately needs one. Also all the other jewels with too much side shake are replaced and end shakes are adjusted.

Crown gasket is removed before cleaning cycle.

Also vintage automatic cleaning machine does the tricks.

After the cleaner!

At first I put in upper balance jewels. I only use synthetic oils, like Moebius 9010, 9415, 1300.

..and to the balance tack to wait for the after party.

I insert the stem, setting lever and screw.

Train bridge just falls into its place. New mainspring is in the barrel.

Barrel bridge back in.

Next job is to complete keyless works to test the backlash. Later escape wheel gives nice "rebound".

I insert Cannon pinion with jeweling tool, as I don't want to move the jewel unintentionally.

Yoke spring back where it should be.

Keyless works completed. Later I have to disassemble these to be able to support 3rd wheel to install seconds wheel.

Initial reading is very pleasing. For those not aware of the amplitude: Swiss movement should have over 270 degree amplitude in horizontal positions.

By centering the regulator the rate gets where it should be. Luckily the beat is spot on without need for any adjusting.

Now it's time for the autowinding unit.

This is taken while "still dirty", but gives idea of the reverser wheel operation. The "shark fin" inside the wheel is riveted to the outer body. Inside the body of the wheel there are two floating pieces. The upper pinion carriers two slips, that come to contact with "floaters". When upper pinion is rotating counter clockwise, floating objects can move freely, but when turning upper pinion clockwise, floating pieces jam to the shark fin pattern and outer body is forced to turn to the same direction.

Autowinding bridge completed and oiled.

For the final assembly I once again take off the mainspring tension and take off the stem.

The dial returns.

Hands. Second's hand needed to be inserted with support to the bottom, as the weak spring could not support the seconds arbor enough.

Back to the case. In the background old gasket of the crown tube.

Assembling the oscillating weight. The axle riveted to is has small slots, that prevents the driver wheel to turn freely.

Back together.

I assemble the autowinding unit before putting it back to the mainplate.

I oil the lower jewel for the barrel driver wheel as it's still possible.


With some time frame I intend to renew the crown, tube and crystal, but for now everything is good.

Afterwards it easy to say, that initially I had really naiive thought of how easy this would be. There's lot of theory, un-hurry approach and motoric skills that need to be mastered before able to service your own watch even at some acceptable level. Little unreal feeling, now that this is done, I'm very happy with the final result.
I guess there's no need to mention that journey continues.  8)